Sighting in a pu

[mproko]

Finally got to spend some more time with my pu. I got it then winter came before I got around to it again so I was stuck to the indoor range (pistol and 22 rifle). I don't venture out in the cold to shoot unless it's for venison.

The reticle is clearly visible and centered. My question is am I supposed to be able to zero it without using the Windage and elevation knobs? Feel free to laugh. I have plenty of regular rifles with modern scopes. Were the shims (none included) only necessary if the reticle is off center? I just wanted to make sure what I was doing was right before I blow anymore ammo. I have it close to Bull so far but that's with the adjustments in knobs. It is a Rguns so not like mount and that were cobbled together by importer or bubba.

Thanks in advance for the help.

Mike

[WeldonHunter]

This may help. There's one part about grinding on the mount to make an adjustment that I strongly advise you avoid doing. If you get to a place that you can't figure something out and feel that's the fix come here and ask before doing anything like that. http://www.mosinnagant.net/sniper%20sec ... ghting.asp

[mproko]

This may help. There's one part about grinding on the mount to make an adjustment that I strongly advise you avoid doing. If you get to a place that you can't figure something out and feel that's the fix come here and ask before doing anything like that. http://www.mosinnagant.net/sniper%20sec ... ghting.asp

Thank you. Yeah if I get to the grinding step I'll put it in the safe and save up for another one.

[jones0430]

Most PU snipers aren't zeroed to their scopes when you get them. You can set the reticle and do a virtual zero with a laser pointer round. That can get you into the ballpark.

[WeldonHunter]

Most PU snipers aren't zeroed to their scopes when you get them. You can set the reticle and do a virtual zero with a laser pointer round. That can get you into the ballpark.

I actually did something similar. My reticle was all the way to the left when I got mine. Since I don't have a laser pointer I took the bolt out and sat the rifle on a table on the carport and used one of the 5 foot hale bales in the field next to my house as a focus point. I lined the bore up, looking through it from the receiver end like the bore was a scope, with the center of the bale about 75 yds out and adjusted the elevation and windage on the scope to roughly the same place. Kind of a crude way to do it but it got me real close. First shots were within a 5" or 6" group at 75yds.

[steelbuttplate]

I've done the same thing, 20 times or more, out my picture window at a R/R crossing sign. It always gets you within 6". Lasers are for pumps and semi-auto.

[AMCHornet]

Once you have it roughly sighted, this is the zeroing procedure given by the Societ handbook:

Set up a target 100m away, which is a black rectangle inside a white rectangle with a vertical line down the middle. Set the battle sight to 300m and aim (using a rest) at the lower edge of the black rectangle where the vertical line goes through it. The sights are considered satisfactory if you get a grouping of four shots within an 8 cm circle, 17 cm above the point of aim. The battle sights are adjusted until that goal is reached. Afterwards, using the rest, the optic is adjusted using the knobs to coincide with the same point of aim the battle sights have (bottom edge, center, of the black rectangle). At that point, the windage knob is set to 0 and the elevation knob set to 300m, the same setting as the battle sights. Now your optic and battle sights are both aligned to the same point of aim at the same distance setting.

PU's were zeroed without a bayonet.