My first black powder revolver

[Synack]

Was having breakfast with the dad a few weeks ago. We're both heavily into C&R guns, but nothing considered antique, though I've been reading quite a bit into percussion revolvers lately. Turns out that he was starting to read into it as well; We ended up debating about .36 vs. .44 and just comparing different models.

After that he picked up a Traditions 1851 brass frame Navy. We started talking about powder and where would be the best place to find things locally -- turns out there is a mom and pop black powder shop about 8 miles from him. While he was picking up stuff for himself he also found me a birthday present:



Did some digging for the proof marks, it's a Euroarms branded Armi San Paolo, made in 1973. (Like his Traditions one, a probably not so accurate .44 version.)

Kinda of curious about the number of grains for these brass frame .44s... His Traditions manual doesn't specify a difference between steel and brass frame, and just says 30 grains of FFF, I've read manuals from other replica manufacturers and they say no more than 15 in a brass frame... Think 15 grains is a good enough load for these guys?

[Junk Yard Dog]

Never more than 22 grains FFFG at most, 15 is better for a plinking load. A steady diet of heavy load's will cause these revolvers to loosen up . This is not a historical copy of any one revolver, it's often called a "Reb" revolver but the Confederacy never made one like this, they made other brass frame revolvers. This is probably everyone's first BP revolver, has been for 50 years or more, I have several myself. Pietta also made them, and still makes them, .454 round ball, and don't forget to cover the loaded chamber with Crisco to seal against chain fires after you firmly pack the ball down on top of the powder load. Never leave an air gap between powder and ball in a BP weapon, that's a Very Bad Thing. I like to use FFG when shooting the lighter 15 grain loads, it fills the chamber higher so I don't have to worry that the rammer isn't reaching deep enough to pack the ball well.

[Synack]

Thanks! Was questioning .451 or .454 balls but you hit that too.

Pretty sure he already picked up FFFG, suppose 15 grains of that and a greased patch between it and the ball would fill any gap?

[Junk Yard Dog]

Some revolvers specify a .451, I always use the .454 as I find the chambers on these are not always exactly to spec and the slight extra size helps seal the chamber. You should see a nice little ring of lead after you push the ball down. Wonder wads will do it, so will cream '0' wheat cereal between powder and ball. Ideally the ball should be seated just inside the chamber, the cereal will bring up the level, you start using small amounts and work up to were the ball will seat firmly just deep enough so it isn't hitting the cone when the cylinder rotates. If you use a greased patch under the ball first cut a circle of wax paper the size of the chamber and put it between powder and patch to avoid contaminating your powder with any grease. With wonder wads this is less of a problem and I dispense with the wax paper. Wonder wads also seal the chamber very well against chain fire so the messy Crisco can be dispensed with also. They didn't worry about chain fires back in the day, nobody stopped to grease their chambers in the middle of a battle. Today we are more cautious.

[Darryl]

I use wonder wads also. Clean and easy to use.

I had a chain fire years ago. It's over before you know what even happened! If you look at the end of the cylinder where the bullet comes out, you will notice if there is a chain fire, there is a way for the ball to exit the pistol. No matter which one goes off. The pistol is designed for that. But I don't recommend "trying it out on purpose"! Like Jim said, back then it was less important in battle, but if one of those "other" chambers go off, best not have anyone standing to your right or you left side. Mine had the lead come out the right side and hit the "wedge" that hold the pistol together, and went everywhere after that!

Just use the wades of if you have too...Crisco and you won't have a problem.

Dolk

PS, I use the .454 balls also. I love to see the lead ring that is machined off when you seat the bullet. You know it is in there tight!

[Tredegar]

Chain Fire is why revolving rifles never caught on. Left hand is downrange when firing.

[bunkysdad]

Hey I'm sorry I missed your post last month, but wanted to tell you how much I like your revolver. My brass frame revolver is a '73 mfg'd Pietta reproduction of a 1858 Remington, and I downloaded and printed a owners manual. They can easily be found on the net, not that they are all that helpful. I hope you will let us know how you and your dad like shooting them, if you haven't already.

[Longcolt44]

I have a few also.

BP handguns 001.JPG

[Earl Burlin]

Nice revolver! Those brass framed revolvers were made by the Confederates because they didn't have any steel so had to use brass. They also made there navies in .44 for better stopping power. I believe Gen Lee had one that he loaded before the war and fired off at the end of the war and all shots fired. Very cool guns.

[redhat10]

Cabelas has supplied me in the past years with some nice replicas. Of course my favorite is the all steel frame .44 remington, 1960 I believe...Plenty stout and a lot of fun as long as the cylinders are sealed properly...

[musketjon]

As long as you have room to seat the ball, you can't over load a revolver. As previously mentioned, a steady diet of full house loads in a brass frame revolver will cause it to shoot loose over time. Keep brass frame revolver loads on the light side. Corn meal or cream of wheat are commonly used as filler in light loads. Just make sure to put the powder in first.
Jon