Idea on getting maximum corrosive salts out of the barrel.
- Darryl
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Re: Idea on getting maximum corrosive salts out of the barre
Don't forget the oil at the end.
- jimpierce7
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Re: Idea on getting maximum corrosive salts out of the barre
Hopps9 I presume? As that is what I have now (3 in 1 went back to work).
- WeldonHunter
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Re: Idea on getting maximum corrosive salts out of the barre
No Hoppe's #9 is a cleaning solvent. He's talking about a lubricating oil to preserve the metal. Like CLP or something similar.jimpierce7 wrote:Hopps9 I presume? As that is what I have now (3 in 1 went back to work).
- Darryl
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Re: Idea on getting maximum corrosive salts out of the barre
CorrectWeldonHunter wrote:No Hoppe's #9 is a cleaning solvent. He's talking about a lubricating oil to preserve the metal. Like CLP or something similar.jimpierce7 wrote:Hopps9 I presume? As that is what I have now (3 in 1 went back to work).
Water (Windex)
Cleaner (your choice)
Oil (almost any thing)
Re: Idea on getting maximum corrosive salts out of the barre
The water in the Windex has worked great for you, not the ammonia. The Russians never had Windex and didn't get all OCD about removing the salts and they never had corroded barrels. Seriously people, you are way over thinking this whole corrosive thing. Wash it out with water and do your regular cleaning routine as you would with any modern firearm.Vendetta wrote:My understand is that the ammonia neutralizes the salts in corrosive ammo. Fwiw Windex has worked great for me.
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'46 Izhevsk M44 Mosin Carbine
'44 Finnish VKT M39 Mosin
'40 Tula 91/30 Finn Capture
'44 K98 Mauser (Yugo Rework)
'43 Swiss K31
'45 Springfield M1 Garand
'43 Remington 1903A3
'43 Long Branch No.4 Mk.1*
'58 Madsen M47
VZ58 Folder With Beaver Barf
New Frontier/KAK AR15 5.56mm
Smith & Wesson M&P9
Re: Idea on getting maximum corrosive salts out of the barre
I have a new product I am just starting to market. Its so safe you can drink it. Sold in convenient single use bottles or in 40 bulk packs for the hoarders. My price is $9.95 a bottle plus postage and handling or $199.95 plus postage and handling for the case..... But wait!!! for the next 50 orders I will double your order! ...... Just pay separate plus postage and handling.
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Better hurry, wont last long!
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- Junk Yard Dog
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Re: Idea on getting maximum corrosive salts out of the barre
I never trusted bottled water, I heard someplace that's it's really just New York City tap water and I know what's in that stuff ! I drink good old country spring water, I have millions of gallons of it, tested pure, and delicious. Gurn flush sounds like you got this out of a large porcelain container located in your homes smallest room ![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
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Don't hit at all if it is honorably possible to avoid hitting; but never hit soft.
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- jimpierce7
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Re: Idea on getting maximum corrosive salts out of the barre
Did you people know? Fish have SEX in water!!
- Darryl
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Re: Idea on getting maximum corrosive salts out of the barre
Yes, That is the secret ingredient that actually removes the salts!jimpierce7 wrote:Did you people know? Fish have SEX in water!!
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Re: Idea on getting maximum corrosive salts out of the barre
That is not what has been repeatedly said.Vad321 wrote:Okay. I guess what I'll say is that cleaning a rifle with just Ballistol works for use after shooting corrosive ammo as well.
Water, or a water based fluid like Windex removes the salts. The rifle cleaner removes other deposits.
"And beneath the starry flag, we civilized them with a Krag..."
Re: Idea on getting maximum corrosive salts out of the barre
Water works the best. I had black powder experience before this "corrosive" ammo in the Mosins. Bag of shells compared to Black Powder. With Black Powder, depending on how many rounds you shoot (and it's not that many), you end up swabbing the bore out with a batch and spit several times least a ball can't be forced down the barrel due to the carbon fowling. The salts are a really big deal. Bring water and do anything you can to get most of it out right there before going home and thoroughly cleaning it. Much easier with a Mosin that has both ends of the barrel open allowing you to pour the water out the muzzle end. I never did that with any of my BP rifles unless I had the stock off. It sucks to have that nasty water flow over the muzzle and down the stock
I guess to thoroughly clean the BP's, you would have to remove the breach plug - I never went there...
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Re: Idea on getting maximum corrosive salts out of the barre
I guess if we want to we could get real picky about water. Most water has some sodium in it especially some bottled waters. So the best thing would be to run a little distilled water through after regular water wash.
- clayshooter2
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Re: Idea on getting maximum corrosive salts out of the barre
No, that is an easy one. The answer has always been Jeep.dolk wrote: This is sort of like asking which is better,....Ford, Chevy, or Dodge
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Re: Idea on getting maximum corrosive salts out of the barre
You missed it. The time to stock up was a few years back.outdooraddict wrote:Well this thread has made my decision not to be hesitant to buy surplus ammo. A guy at work told me not to get it, I think it's time to stock up.
But, better late than never.
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Re: Idea on getting maximum corrosive salts out of the barre
IMHO Windex is popular because it is cheap, comes in a handy squirt bottle, has no bad smell and works when used consistently.
I do not use straight Ballistol for cleaning, I use the 8/1 water mix often, called Moose Milk, for cleaning of firearms I've just fired. SO it is probably the water doing most of the cleaning.
For new-to-me rifles I use Eds Red for initial cleaning of the accumulated crud in the rifle barrels.
I went decades cleaning my black powder cartridge shotgun by simply pouring boiling water down the tubes, drying with a couple tight patches, then running a couple patches of 3/1 Oil through the bores.
As far as I'm concerned technique used is less critical than cleaning soon after firing and cleaning consistantly.
I do not use straight Ballistol for cleaning, I use the 8/1 water mix often, called Moose Milk, for cleaning of firearms I've just fired. SO it is probably the water doing most of the cleaning.
For new-to-me rifles I use Eds Red for initial cleaning of the accumulated crud in the rifle barrels.
I went decades cleaning my black powder cartridge shotgun by simply pouring boiling water down the tubes, drying with a couple tight patches, then running a couple patches of 3/1 Oil through the bores.
As far as I'm concerned technique used is less critical than cleaning soon after firing and cleaning consistantly.
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Re: Idea on getting maximum corrosive salts out of the barre
Here is the first question I will pose to the forum. Water, oil, solvent, whatever - does the direction that the bore is swabbed make any difference? I watched a video on utube and the instructor (?) demonstrated that the proper direction for cleaning the bore is the same direction that the bullet goes. First he placed a plastic sleeve in the chamber to protect the chamber and then pushed a brush (with either solvent or oil) thru the barrel and out the end of the barrel. Removed the brush, went to the chamber again and pushed an oil soaked patch thru. Then dry patches till there was no more evidence of contamination. Mind you, it was always PUSH the brush or patch, never PULL. Or, heaven forbid, any PUSH/PULL scrubbing action.
First off, does anyone know where I can find one of those plastic chamber protecters? Are they worth it or just added foofoo?
Second, is there any science behind the one direction cleaning process? I have seen other cleaning videos that used a scrubbing action.
John
First off, does anyone know where I can find one of those plastic chamber protecters? Are they worth it or just added foofoo?
Second, is there any science behind the one direction cleaning process? I have seen other cleaning videos that used a scrubbing action.
John
- jimpierce7
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Re: Idea on getting maximum corrosive salts out of the barre
The brass wire brush I go back and forth with. Everything else I go from the chamber out. It was explained to me to do it like this to keep the yuck out of the chamber. Which makes sense to me. I don't know how necessary a bore guide really is, but I like mine.
- WeldonHunter
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Re: Idea on getting maximum corrosive salts out of the barre
Cleaning from the chamber is a good idea and most likely comes from the time when the cleaning rods were made of steel, in some cases like the cleaning rods the Mosin Nagant and other military firearms come with. They tended to be made of the same steel the barrels were made from. They can and did cause a lot of undue wear on the crowns most likely from cleaning from the muzzle end. That's probably why so many Mosin Nagants are counterbored. With the introduction of fiberglass/brass/aluminium and coated rods this isn't as much of a problem now. Cleaning from the chamber side out also pushes any fouling out of the bore and not back into the receiver side of the firearm if you were pushing from the muzzle inward. The idea is to remove the crude from the rifle, not just from the bore and into the receiver where it can fall into the action and magazine. Pushing and pulling or scrubbing with a brush tends to damage the bristols by bending them in a way they shouldn't be especially if you stop mid bore and change direction but this also can pull crude back into the receiver side of the firearm. If you push in one direction until the brush is free of the bore the bristols can spring back. Pushing in only one direction also makes more sense with patches because again the idea is to remove the fouling and pulling it back just pulls the fouling back into the bore.one finger john wrote:Here is the first question I will pose to the forum. Water, oil, solvent, whatever - does the direction that the bore is swabbed make any difference? I watched a video on utube and the instructor (?) demonstrated that the proper direction for cleaning the bore is the same direction that the bullet goes. First he placed a plastic sleeve in the chamber to protect the chamber and then pushed a brush (with either solvent or oil) thru the barrel and out the end of the barrel. Removed the brush, went to the chamber again and pushed an oil soaked patch thru. Then dry patches till there was no more evidence of contamination. Mind you, it was always PUSH the brush or patch, never PULL. Or, heaven forbid, any PUSH/PULL scrubbing action.
First off, does anyone know where I can find one of those plastic chamber protecters? Are they worth it or just added foofoo?
Second, is there any science behind the one direction cleaning process? I have seen other cleaning videos that used a scrubbing action.
John