I've reloaded the 7.62 x 39 cartridge for about 10 years or so now. Although steel case ammo is relatively cheap compared to reloading your own in some cases but not all,if you look around at the moment you will be lucky to find any x39 ammo of any type or components to reload it and most likely thats going to continue for awhile.
This is not the first time shortages have happened and it probably want be the last so if you haven't gotten ahead of the curve by either stocking up on steel or brass case commercial ammo or reloading components to load your own you might just have to play a waiting game till things calm down. Thats no necessarily a bad thing as it will give you time to put things together.
Lets start with the ammo you have on hand. 1500 rds. isn't bad thats about the amount I keep in my rainy day stash that doesn't get shot most of it is either Golden Tiger FMJ or Bear HP and SP with a few boxes of steel case Chinese and some Yugo M67 throw into the mix for old time sake. It's what shoot the most accurately that I found out testing in my Chinese and Yugo SKS. Wolf is an ammo I just don't use anymore due to some issues it had several years ago with underpowered loads and pierced primers,but I haven't heard of any issues in a few years now. Wolf is just an importer and makes no ammo of there own so it could happen with any ammo really but I don't have to buy it so I don't,that just a personal preference.
As far as the different bullet designs found in Russian X39 ammo FMJ is the most reliably as far as feed and function,the HP and SP bullets are mainly used for hunting purposes if your stuck with steel case ammo but they work just fine for any other use as well if they feed through your rifle without any problems. The thing about the Russian HP and SP bullets is that they for the most part use the same steel jacket bullet as the FMJ so expansion is pretty much based on the laws of physics as to how they preform on your intended target,range,muzzle velocity and what they hit at time of impact as to if they preform as intended,n some cases they don't expand at all and act just like an FMJ.
Some of the Russian HP ammo is reported to be loaded with the 8M3 effect HP that is suppose to expand/fragment more readily but I never got into looking just for that,it still make a hole. The M67 Yugo ammo you have is good ammo,it was made by both Prvi Partizan and Igman ammo plants in the former Yugoslavia. Although they changed powder types and pressure loading of the ammo several time all M67 ammo used the same bullet with a all copper jacket lead core bullet that was designed to deform and tumble faster and produce a much wider stretch cavity in tissue than all the other x39 FMJ offerings,it's also corrosive primed so clean your rifle as soon as possible after shooting it or you will end up with a rust bucket especially in climates where the humidity is high and the corrosive salts deposited on metal surfaces by the prime compound can attract moisture.
As far as commercial boxer primed brass case ammo for reloading goes Remington,Federal,American Eagle,Winchester,Sellier & Bellot,PMC,Fiocchi,MFS and Prvi Partizan all make it. The Prvi and S & B are generally going to be the cheapest at around $10 per 20 rds. while Rem.Fed and Win. are generally the highest priced with everything else in between. I've load all there brass with the exception of the Federal and AE and it's done fine,I'm kinda partial to the foreign brass as it tends to be a little thicker. My SKS rifle don't abuse the brass so I gotten many loading so far and have yet to trash a case. Rem. Fed. Win. Prvi. and Lapua brass for the X39 is also available when you can find it in factory new brass.
For bullets you have lots of options to choose from just about ever major bullet mfg. make a .310 or .311 dia. bullet in the 123 to 150 gr. weight range that will work in the 7.62 x 39. Either dia. will work but one may shoot more accurately that the other, the only way to find that out is through testing. Both my SKS rifle have .312" dia. groove bore but they shoot the .310" dia. bullets best with the .311" dia. bullets a close second regardless of weight. I load all the Hornady 123 gr. FMJ,SP and V-MAX bullets and you can use the same load data for all three. I also shoot the Speer HotCor and Prvi 150 gr. .311" SP bullet as well as a couple surplus pull bullets in 140+ and 180+ gr. FMJ. Ans since I cast bullets for all my handguns and rifles I shoot cast loads in my SKS rifle as well. My two bullets of choice are the Lee 32 cal. .314" dia. 90 gr. tumble lube SWC,it's cast from pure lead or a 3:1 Lead/wheel weight alloy tumble lubed once run through a Lee .314 push through sizer and tumble lubed again before loading. I shoot this bullet sub-sonic at around 900+ fps.using 3.0 grs. of Alliant Bullseye no filler need,it want cycle the action in a semi but it a excellent plinker/pest/small game load and you can work the action like a bolt gun and not loose your brass.
My other cast load I use is the Lee tumble lube .312" 160 gr. gas check RN,the bullet drops from my mold at .314" which is exactly the dia. I need with a cast bullet in a .312 groove bore,your results may vary due to manufacturing tolerances as to the dia. of the bullet Lee molds tend to either drop as specified or no more than .003" larger all my Lee molds drop bullet about .002" larger than the spec on the box.. Generally .001" to .002" larger than the groove dia. of you bore is best I like it to be the fattest I can chamber easily. Lee make two molds specifically for the 7.62 x 39 one is the TL version and the other uses the standard grease grooves,both are gas check designs for higher velocity loads,NOE and Accurate Molds and a few other also make a mold that is designed for the 7.62 x 39 cartridge there a bit more expensive than the Lee molds but are better quality but honestly I can't complain about my X39 Lee mold it made great accurate bullets for the past five years.
Anyways with this particular 160 gr. cast bullet I shoot two loads using Alliant 2400 it's a load developed by C.E. Harris you start with a Min. of 11.0 grs. and increase it by one half grain until you get reliable cycling or you reach a Max. load of 15.0 grs. In my Chinese it take 12.5 grs. to accomplish that MV is 1450+ fps. on the chrono and you can get one ragged hole at 50 yds. with the iron on a pretty regular basis. My Yugo M59/66A1 is a bit more picky as the gas system which is a bit more open than the Chinese SKS due to the gas valve assembly likes the Max. load of 15.0 grs. but on a rare occasion it want cycle even with the Max. load. For SKS and AK rifle that the Max. load of 2400 want cycle with the Lee cast bullet loads I've pretty much found that a starting load of 18.0 grs. of Alliant Reloader #7 works ever time. The Max. load of 2400 or the starter load of Reloader #7 will get you close to 2K fps. MV The 2400 loads tend to dump the brass within 5' or less of your shooting position lesser amount of 2400 will dump it closer,the Reloader #7 loads tends to throw the brass out past about 10' or more.
For standard rifle powders using J bullets,powders like AA-1680,Reloader #7 and IMR or H-4198 are all good and very accurate with bullet in the 123 to 150 gr. range,there are several others like IMR-4227 and H-335 that work but they tend to either produce lower velocity with the same ammo or use much more powder to get the same results as the first three I mentioned I use Reloader # 7 because it cheaper and readily available and the IMR or H-4198 as a backup powder nobody carries the AA-1680 around here anymore. The Reloader #7 is nice because it works with all weights of J bullets and with the heavier cast loads.
For primers there are only three that I trust to use in my SKS rifle that have the free floating firing pin those are the CCI #34 LR Mil-Spec primer Wolf/Tula LR or LRM and WLR never had a slamfire using these primers as long as you seat the fully in the primer pocket and don't drop the bolt on a rd. loaded in the chamber instead of letting it be stripped from the magazine.
But it goes bang and thats all i care about.
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