re finish a rusty junker Remington 597

[matt167]

I have this Remington 597 that I didn't do anything with for a couple years, sitting in a gun case. It did what all modern Remington's do and rusted. I cleaned it as best as I can but it's still obviously rusty. It functions correctly however.

I have not tried something like CLP and a scouring pad or anything like that, but it's on my mind to try because the finish is so far gone.

Would painting the barrel with some satin Rustoleum work? This is just a varmit gun with a modern plastic stock. And the last few times I needed a varmit gun, I grabbed a Crickett .22 as it was handier

[Junk Yard Dog]

I have this Remington 597 that I didn't do anything with for a couple years, sitting in a gun case. It did what all modern Remington's do and rusted. I cleaned it as best as I can but it's still obviously rusty. It functions correctly however.

I have not tried something like CLP and a scouring pad or anything like that, but it's on my mind to try because the finish is so far gone.

Would painting the barrel with some satin Rustoleum work? This is just a varmit gun with a modern plastic stock. And the last few times I needed a varmit gun, I grabbed a Crickett .22 as it was handier

Modern Remington has had it's faults, especially after acquiring and trying to build Marlins. The rust in this case seems to be the owners fault for not inspecting a firearm left in a gun case for years. Gun case storage is the worst way to keep these firearms given the likelihood that the foam insert will retain moisture even if it's closed cell. Copper brush, not a scouring pad, Copper brush with lots of oil as you brush the rust. Oil turns orange you wipe it off, reapply and continue until it stays relatively clear. You might be surprised how much blue will remain under the rust. Then keep it oiled and in some sort of sealed plastic bag, even a trash bag will do if the metal is heavily oiled, or better yet sprayed down with Cosmoline ( available online) when you are not using the rifle.

[ffuries]

Everyone has their favorite go to oil etc. My guns sit in a wooden vertical floor rack, the guns are disassembled cleaned, coated in transmission fluid, reassembled. They are inspected every time we do a time change, and they have yet to rust.

Even after they were soaked during Hurricane Michael, I only had 2 or 3 rifles develop any rust, and it was caught early.

As JYD said putting them in rifle socks, rifle cases, etc the foam or cloth will allow them to rust and they'll rust quickly. I've seen too many guns that friends have brought by for me to clean and look at, that were pristine in one side, and looked beatened to hell on the other side due to rust. They had been in a drawer, and the side facing down was on felt, cloth etc.

Here's my rifles and like I said a had little rust after my gunroom was soaked during the storm. They are now stored in a closet awaiting my new gunroom.

https://russian-mosin-nagant-forum.com/ ... ks#p443175

[matt167]

Yeah, to be honest. I was never happy with the rifle. I even tried selling it off years ago, nobody wanted it, and the local shops I went to all called it a pile of trash basically ( at the time, nearly new ). It does work and operate fine, and with the $20 3x9 scope on it, It's accurate enough but I wished now that I bought a 10/22 with a wooden stock.. I stuck it in a case in the corner of a closet and pretty much forgot about it until I pulled it out last week, after I realised that it had not seen daylight in about 2 years.

I have CLP and a copper brush, so I'll see what I can do. I have rem oil as well, and some Ballistol ... Keep in mind that all my other firearms get pulled out and oiled/ checked monthly. I'm probably going to go through them all good when I get the Carcano rifle in my posession. I'm working on getting my grandfathers nice old gun cabinent to my house

[matt167]

Well, it went from rusty junker to shiny new looking in about 1/2 hour... I couldn't find any of my copper brushes, but instead got some pure copper scouring pads from the grocery store figuring they would work... Indeed, I wouldn't try it on a milsurp or high dollar gun, but the rust is completely gone. I went over and over it until the paper towels I wiped it down with were clearing up, and then I oiled it and wiped it down until the paper towels came out clear. Not a scratch or a mark on the rifle

I do like that the rifle comes apart with 2 allen screws.

[ffuries]

Well, it went from rusty junker to shiny new looking in about 1/2 hour... I couldn't find any of my copper brushes, but instead got some pure copper scouring pads from the grocery store figuring they would work... Indeed, I wouldn't try it on a milsurp or high dollar gun, but the rust is completely gone. I went over and over it until the paper towels I wiped it down with were clearing up, and then I oiled it and wiped it down until the paper towels came out clear. Not a scratch or a mark on the rifle

I do like that the rifle comes apart with 2 allen screws.

Good deal, now with your oil find an oil that will remain on the rifle and protect it. Like I said I use transmission fluid, even after a soaking from a hurricane my rifles still had a good amount of oil on the metal that protected them from rusting.

[matt167]

Hmm I wonder, how about marine 2 stroke oil? I recently put a brand new 4 stroke on my boat, and have almost a full gallon of Johnson premium TCW3 2 stroke oil

[ffuries]

Hmm I wonder, how about marine 2 stroke oil? I recently put a brand new 4 stroke on my boat, and have almost a full gallon of Johnson premium TCW3 2 stroke oil

Might work, vehicle/motor oil is available in larger quantities for a cheaper price than gun oil.......

I still have gun oil and bore cleaner around, but I've gone to pb blaster, break free and such for cleaning and transmission fluid for oiling and preservation. Everyone you talk to, has their favorite flavor of cleaners and oil......Just try different ones out until you find one that works best for you.

[Junk Yard Dog]

https://www.cosmolinedirect.com/

[matt167]

https://www.cosmolinedirect.com/

which product? just the RP-342 spray?

[Junk Yard Dog]

https://www.cosmolinedirect.com/

which product? just the RP-342 spray?

The spray is what I use, it goes on wet like penetrating oil, then dries to a wax like coat.

[matt167]

I'll have to order some... Actually I might order a lot. They list it as a chassis saver for cars and trucks as well. I think it might hold up to NY road salt.

[matt167]

This is way off topic, but anyone know if the Mini Mosin .22LR ( KSA9130 ) is as small as a Cricket "My First Rifle"?

I bought a Cricket for giggles years ago because it was cheap, like $50 at walmart on clearence. It's an easy gun to grab and take care of small critters and such, It's way too small for me to really aim but I can generally hit the target. I know the KSA9130 is a Cricket action, and being a quick simple gun to stick a round in it works quite nice.. I'm really considering a .22LR with a wooden stock, and a 'replica' Mosin might be pretty cool. A 10/22 with a wooden stock would cost about the same though. I almost cannot wrap my head around paying almost $400, for a gun that is functionally identical to a $50 gun... But it's cool

[Junk Yard Dog]

I'll have to order some... Actually I might order a lot. They list it as a chassis saver for cars and trucks as well. I think it might hold up to NY road salt.

If your vehicle is new just off the lot and you start spraying it with the cosmoline then yes, it will hold off the salt even better than the lanolin based stuff the towns use on the equipment. It will not help much if rust has already started, and here in NY that's two days after you bring it home. Humidity in summer, salt in winter. For anything that has had surface or worse rust start under it I use motor oil mixed with diesel fuel, just enough diesel to thin it out so it will pump through a weed sprayer. I hit the trucks twice a year, the mix penetrates into the rust, and can spray far into frames and hidden spots. Put cardboard under the truck, there will be drips. It's kept the worst rusted plow trucks in one piece way longer than anyone thought possible. Cosmoline needs to go on clean metal, it will dry and seal it off. Rust retains salts and moisture that will keep working away at the metal, you can't seal it, but you can oil it, like with guns, the oil stops rust, but must be reapplied from time to time.

[matt167]

Well, it was new in March, but still has under 10k miles on it. I did pay extra for the dealerships undercoating ( which seems to be black chassis saver paint ), it came with a 7 year environmental warranty which included interior wear which is the only reason I went for it.. Being shiny paint is what made me think cosmoline..

With my older vehicles, I've sprayed used motor oil on them which works well.

[Junk Yard Dog]

The cosmoline should help if it hasn't seen a winter yet. It will be on top of whatever the dealer used so once that flakes off the cosmoline will go with it so keep an eye on it. Calcium Chloride is sprayed on the roads here in advance of any weather event in the winter. What we like to call liquid rust, worse even than the regular road salts that we have had since the early 1970's. Before that people used tire chains, and learned to drive on snow and ice, or better yet stayed home in bad weather. No pandering to the lowest common denominator with a drivers license.

[steelbuttplate]

The cosmoline should help if it hasn't seen a winter yet. It will be on top of whatever the dealer used so once that flakes off the cosmoline will go with it so keep an eye on it. Calcium Chloride is sprayed on the roads here in advance of any weather event in the winter. What we like to call liquid rust, worse even than the regular road salts that we have had since the early 1970's. Before that people used tire chains, and learned to drive on snow and ice, or better yet stayed home in bad weather. No pandering to the lowest common denominator with a drivers license.

Wouldn't some Ammonia cleaner in a tank sprayer be a good treatment every spring, then more oil ?

[Junk Yard Dog]

The cosmoline should help if it hasn't seen a winter yet. It will be on top of whatever the dealer used so once that flakes off the cosmoline will go with it so keep an eye on it. Calcium Chloride is sprayed on the roads here in advance of any weather event in the winter. What we like to call liquid rust, worse even than the regular road salts that we have had since the early 1970's. Before that people used tire chains, and learned to drive on snow and ice, or better yet stayed home in bad weather. No pandering to the lowest common denominator with a drivers license.

Wouldn't some Ammonia cleaner in a tank sprayer be a good treatment every spring, then more oil ?

Hot water and soap would be better, the idea of my truck smelling like a cat urinal would have me holding off on the ammonia. People here try everything to stop the rust, really nothing works except the oil, and you have to keep up on the oil or it will wash off and stop working. It sucks to pay eighty, or a hundred grand of more for a lowboy, or small dump truck and have rust bubbles on the fenders, and rust streaking on the frame in the first year.

[bunkysdad]

You got lucky on this one that you checked it when you did. It could have been unattended for a couple more years and been a different story

[matt167]

You got lucky on this one that you checked it when you did. It could have been unattended for a couple more years and been a different story

Probably. I may see if there is trade in value in it though, to grab a wood stock 10/22.