The Russian Mosin Nagant Forum

'Not sure if this is the right forum for this question, but bolt open or bolt closed?

If closed, then closed on a snap cap?

This is a serious question. I now have several rifles purchased on GB that need extensive work on their bores due to lack of (or improper) maintenance. I've always stored rifles with the bolt closed on a snap cap because I never dry-fire a weapon without one.

My rifles are stored with bolts open. It is more for space problems then anything else.

I do the same. Bolts open and I usually take the tension off the spring. You'll see what I'm talking about in the second Westinghouse in the thread I posted yesterday. If you use this method, just don't forget you left the bolt in this manner. If you go to shove the bolt home you'll rake the stock on the left side.

I close the bolt but move the handle from the vertical to about the 1 o'clock position, then squeeze the trigger and it flips shut. I think that releases the tension on the spring without firing the rifle.

I don't keep the bolt open or keep anything in the chamber. The only time I leave a bolt open or slightly open is when on vertical racks where straight bolts are a problem. If you make a rack, use 3 1/2 in centers. Unfortunately the rack I have now does Mosins pretty well but have to keep the straight bolt Mausers at about 2:00. When I pull the trigger on a Mosin I hold the cocking piece and gradually let it slide forward.

It's all personal preference. Leaving the bolt open or closed does not affect the spring any differently. I've researched/discussed this with not only guns but with classic and/or high end cars as well.

Personally, I have mine stored both ways, depending on the space they are in.

What's much more important in storing is making sure things are properly oiled and there are no fingerprints left on metal, especially when long term storage or in high humidity environments.

Mine are stored closed.

If rust is a worry during long storage then clean the rifle, and spray it down with spray on cosmoline, at least on the metal. Let the cosmoline dry, wrap it up in a big trash bag and seal the end to keep the air out. Bolt closed, tension off the firing pin spring. With an EMPTY CHAMBER firmly hold the cocking piece with one hand, pull the trigger back and ease the cocking piece down . NEVER ATTEMPT THIS WITH A ROUND IN THE CHAMBER.

Junk Yard Dog wrote:If rust is a worry during long storage then clean the rifle, and spray it down with spray on cosmoline, at least on the metal. Let the cosmoline dry, wrap it up in a big trash bag and seal the end to keep the air out. Bolt closed, tension off the firing pin spring. With an EMPTY CHAMBER firmly hold the cocking piece with one hand, pull the trigger back and ease the cocking piece down . NEVER ATTEMPT THIS WITH A ROUND IN THE CHAMBER.

No worries. The only time I have a live round chambered is when I'm out at the butts and have the piece pointed up and down range.

Not you I am worried about, but we get a lot of kids and first time gun owners through here who may not understand.

That is right Jim. When we do it in practice, we will get in a habit of doing it right after awhile. Like assuming that a gun is empty. I always assume it is loaded. Then I check.
Most of the time my bolts are open so I can stand the rifles closer together.

For the last thirty years, I have given the bore a thin coat of R.I.G, rust inhibiting grease, a commercial grease you can get most anywhere. You need to swab it out before shooting, but I have clean and shot rifles after twenty years of storage, and there was not a trace of anything but clean bore. The good thing about it is that it I leaves a thin coat which attracts less dust.

Tuck or no tuck?

I only use RIG on the stainless semi-auto pistols as to prevent mauling (aka excessive metal wear between 2 stainless pieces aka the slide and receiver) like the Series 80 colts and Walther PPKS.
Oil, even automotive oil will preserve steel metal parts.
Yeah, oil over the years will collect dirt, lint, etc., but it will preserve from rusting.
Cosmoline is good for the ages...

I store my with bolt open.

And oil them good and don't worry about dust and lint it will wipe off.

I have been selling and parting out vintage dirt bikes for years on e-bay.and I am always tickled when I find a old bike that someone wants to get rid of or I am buying and it is covered everywhere with old oil and grease.Almost 100% of the time everything under the oil and grease will be in pristime condition even if it has been outside for years and the previous owner would sell it super cheap because it was filthy and covered in oil and grease that was the best thing about old dirt bikes with the oil injections they leaked everywhere.

Remember when cars had oil bath air cleaners? That oil would get all over after awhile. The other day I opened the hood on a 1946 Lincoln that had been sitting for over 60 years, the air cleaner still had a wet oil sheen to it, not a spec of rust. Under it was a carburetor that moved freely, even the needle screws turned by hand. That carb and air cleaner are going to bring me the equivalent of at least one M39, maybe with a 91/30 refurb tossed in. I love greasy old crap, greasy never rusts.

For the ones I store long term, I coat everything with some Ballistol. I close the bolt, keep my thumb on the cocking knob firmly, and pull the trigger keeping tension on the knob to slowly release it. I recall new Polish M44s being sold with the bores packed full of grease, and I had thought about that for the ones I won't shoot long term.

I store mine bolt closed. Each gun turned about 30 to 45 degrees. They won't fit bolt open.