Shooting the Mosin

[firesteel]

I broke the screw on the front barrel band of my M91. Being a Finnish model, the band is secured in place by a small screw in the stock right in front of the band. My question is, is it ok to shoot the rifle before my new band arrives? Will a new barrel band when tightened in place change the point of aim?

[qz2026]

Dang, where do you live. Your time says 4:17 and mine says 3:17 and I am on EST? Maybe the server has the incorrect time.

Anyway, the little screw in front of the barrel band keeps the band from slipping forward. The actual screw in the band holds the hand guard on or in earlier models holds the barrel in the stock firmly. I can't see why you can't shoot it. If it is super loose try snugging on a 9130 band (never tried this but it might work) or tie it down with some twine (I am assuming there is a handguard - if not don't use twine ). I don't think a new barrel band will have a significant or any impact on accuracy.

[firesteel]

Thanks. I meant point of impact, not point of aim. The band is coming from Finland, so it might take a while to get here and I'm anxious to get to shooting.

[desdem12]

Becareful with the barrel bands on the m91s Ok, it is very ok to shoot with the loose band. The little teeny screws were put in the bands and infront of the bands so they could have the bands on but still loose. The reason was for accuracy. You don't need to tighten them so tight they don't move or break them but to have them stay in place loosely and not have an effect on barrel harmonics. I would not put a 91/30 or other one there but just use the one band you have and if it holds the handguard on then fine if not then shoot it without the handguard until your band gets here.

[wingspar]

This thread reminded me of something I’ve been wondering about. Are Mosin barrels free floating?

I know the hand guard on my 91/30 slides forward when shooting it and the forward band literally slides out of place while shooting the gun.

[desdem12]

Finn barrels are mostly free floated by shimming I couldn't say that about Russians. They may or may not be floating but you can shim them yourself to float them. If you have trouble with the handguard you can leave it off while shooting and see if that helps.

[firesteel]

Good ideas. Thanks!

[desdem12]

Some people have experimented with card stock in certain places and also cork in places or the length of the channel. I personaly have not, I just buy another rifle until I get on that will shoot better then me.

[WeldonHunter]

Aren't the screws on these reverse threads?

[bunkysdad]

They give the appearance of being reverse threads because you turn them clockwise to remove. What is actually happening is the screw is pressing against the other side of the band to spread the band enough to remove it. Almost every time I have seen these broken or stripped it has been from turning them in the traditional counter-clockwise fashion and forcing them when they appear to be seized.

[firesteel]

I was aware of how to turn the screw. It was just kinda stuck even though I soaked it in break free. Also, I can see an area in the stock that has a small steel shim or shims tacked in place under the barrel. This must be what the Finns did.

[WeldonHunter]

They give the appearance of being reverse threads because you turn them clockwise to remove. What is actually happening is the screw is pressing against the other side of the band to spread the band enough to remove it. Almost every time I have seen these broken or stripped it has been from turning them in the traditional counter-clockwise fashion and forcing them when they appear to be seized.

That's why I asked. I wasn't sure but I know I've seen many threads of broken screws and it's almost always because they were turned the wrong way while trying to remove the band. I didn't know they worked the way you just described though. Cool, you learn something new every day.

[WeldonHunter]

I was aware of how to turn the screw. It was just kinda stuck even though I soaked it in break free. Also, I can see an area in the stock that has a small steel shim or shims tacked in place under the barrel. This must be what the Finns did.

In the future I wouldn't use Break Free as a penetrating oil. It's great gun oil. I use it on just about every firearm I own to protect them from the humidity. It's to thick to be a good penetrating oil though. I use Kroil or PB Blaster for that. Kroil actually even emulsifies the rust. Great stuff.

[akguy1985]

Aren't the screws on these reverse threads?

yes they are reverse thread.

[bunkysdad]

I have been using Break Free lately too for cleaning and lubrication because my wife cannot handle the smell of the solvents but the Break Free doesn't bother her. And it cleans real well. I don't think it is suitable for corrosive ammo? Weldonhunter do you know if it is?

[WeldonHunter]

I have been using Break Free lately too for cleaning and lubrication because my wife cannot handle the smell of the solvents but the Break Free doesn't bother her. And it cleans real well. I don't think it is suitable for corrosive ammo? Weldonhunter do you know if it is?

The main thing I've found Break Free CLP to be good for is protection from rusting while on the racks and lubrication. I have my rifles out in the open and it's humid here. I have no rusting problems and I also saw somewhere on one of their ads that it helps to repel dust. It does seem to help with that to a certain degree. It's real dusty here. If you remember the comparison that the youtube guy did a while back where he compared the cleaning ability of 4 solvents. Balistol, Barnes, Hoppe's #9 and Break Free CLP. His test was to see how they all worked for copper, brass and lead removal. I knew right off that Break Free shouldn't have been in this comparison because it's not a solvent and he drew the same conclusion. It doesn't dissolve metals at all and most of it's cleaning action comes from it making dirt wet and the scrubbing motion of the user. This is good in that it makes break Free safe for just about any surface on a firearm. He actually confirmed this by calling Safariland, Inc. the company that makes Break Free CLP. It also doesn't remove corrosive salts other than what it may make wet and is removed from the simple action of wiping them away. It does not dissolve salts. It's main function is protection/lubrication and it does a great job of that. It sticks to metal leaving a protective film. I have a coffee can with a rag soaked with it I use to wipe them down every few months and have no rust problems. Any time I touch a rifle it gets wiped down before it goes back on the rack and I don't touch the metal while doing that.