Break out the popcorn; it's Part II of the M39 Sale.

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JagdPanther
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Re: Break out the popcorn; it's Part II of the M39 Sale.

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Re: Break out the popcorn; it's Part II of the M39 Sale.

Post by BuckeyeSgt »

TheMaineEvent wrote:Now there's a man after my own heart. Here is me in my Vader suit at a Toys for Tots drive.
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Sweet. Do you do the 501st?
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Re: Break out the popcorn; it's Part II of the M39 Sale.

Post by redeuce »

dolk wrote:
redeuce wrote:2001 Shasta Cheyenne. 27 feet. Walk around queen bed in the back. One slider. Chevy, 454.
Wow, can you make popcorn in it!! :thumbsup:
Yep. It's got a micro wave.
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Re: Break out the popcorn; it's Part II of the M39 Sale.

Post by TheMaineEvent »

BuckeyeSgt wrote:
TheMaineEvent wrote:Now there's a man after my own heart. Here is me in my Vader suit at a Toys for Tots drive.
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Sweet. Do you do the 501st?
I used to, but I dropped out due to lack of time to troop. I got to present John Williams with his 80th birthday cake in costume while he was guest conducting the Boston Pops. They played all of his movie theme songs and when they got to Star Wars we came out on stage and with the cake. This was a 501st event and was great fun.

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Re: Break out the popcorn; it's Part II of the M39 Sale.

Post by BuckeyeSgt »

That is awesome. I'm not sure I'd have time either but I'd like too. I'm not sure if my stuff will meet the requirements. This ain't cheap! The blaster was more than a mosin.
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Re: Break out the popcorn; it's Part II of the M39 Sale.

Post by redeuce »

Junk Yard Dog wrote:Nice class C, Shasta was able to stretch that to 27' and add the slide because Chevy started using frames in their van chassis in '97. Watch that frame for rust issues, they are known for it and as RV's sit a lot rust can sneak up fast. What's supporting that rear overhang? In my older class C they welded heavy steel to what would be the vans rear bumper undersupport, but mine only has a 3" overhang back there, yours will be over 5' or longer, you want to be careful about loading the rear with anything heavy. My class A was built on a Ford F550 frame so the steel runs full length front to back, but the vans used to build the class C's don't have frames, or unibody sub assembly's long enough for that. Being a 2001 you should have a generator on that rig, nice to have that on the C's, I have it on my Tioga, great for going off grid.
Thanks. We had an A class in the 90's, so I still had a pretty good idea of what to look for. We looked at hundreds of them for about 3 months. Lotta junk out there. This is a one owner deal I bought from a 68 year old lifetime RVer. Stored it inside when he wasn't using it. It's got some nice upgrades- oak cabinets, ducted air and heat, etc. Clean unit. Roof was just recoated and all seams sealed with Dicor self leveling lap sealant. The overhang had a slight leak, so I took all the trim apart, put new heavy stainless screws in, and resealed every seam in the overhang. It actually does have a frame all the way back to the rear bumper. It's a frame extension welded to the van frame. Onan Micro Quiet 4K generator. I spent two weeks after we bought it tightening or replacing every screw, fastener, etc on the whole coach. New brakes and tires. It's no big deal, 15k motor home, but we couldn't afford anything else, so to us it's our new baby. We hadn't been on a vacation in years. We have two rescue dogs, one had the snot beat outa him for 6 years, so he has issues. He won't let anybody in the house and we can't leave him with anyone. He's got PTSD. So we figure get this RV and take them with us. Lol. I'd show you more pics, but don't want to over hijack the thread!
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Re: Break out the popcorn; it's Part II of the M39 Sale.

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The Dicor stuff works, I use it on both RV's, very easy to apply, the overhangs on every C leak sooner or later, it's a design fault. The one on my Tioga had to be disassembled and entirely rebuilt, it's the windows in the front overhang and the roof seal right above them, vibration causes leaks in that area. I have seen some serious disasters in that area, the van roof supports the rot so by the time anyone notices it's starting to sag in front the damage is done. The mattresses up there can hide water for years. Just remember that you have a long ass on that rig, it will drag if you turn up a hill that's steep, the class A had height back there that the C's lack, the longer the overhang the more problems with drag, and at 27' you are at the limit. Even with my 23' C I have to be careful, you probably have drag bars back there, sometimes they even have small wheels added, that should protect the back bumper from dragging. Good that you went over the brakes, stopping in something this size is important, as important is the propane gas system, check every connection and line, every appliance using the gas. That rig has an automatic shutdown sensor inside that if it detects gas it will close a valve on the main tank, test it and make sure it's working. Just take a bic lighter hold it by the sensor and let go some gas, it should shut the system down. Water and toilet problems, Ice box not working, leaks, all irritating problems RV owners have to deal with, but the gas can kill you, so can carbon monoxide, make sure your main cabin and bedroom alarms are working for both smoke and Carbon monoxide. I know RV smoke detectors, ditch them and get some good quality new replacement's. My Class A has the ducted furnace, a real convenience, but if something goes wrong it can duct deadly gas into every corner of the RV in minutes. It's a good rig, and I never suggest to anyone that they buy a new one, let somebody else deal with all the crap that goes wrong on a new RV, by now all the recalls on yours are done, you wouldn't believe all that goes wrong on new rigs, all the vehicle issues, and new house issues all in one, they are highly complex builds that need shaking down for a year or two to iron out all the bugs. Onan specializes in power generators and that unit is a very old design tried and true. Same one I have in the Tioga, and a larger version is in my Fleetwood, I even had one in a welder once. Twin cylinder pancake engine, be sure you treat the gasoline with marine gasoline treatment for the ethanol fuel, this is very important due to the RV sitting thing. Ethanol will eat the carburetor on the genset, and do bad things to the entire fuel system as it sits. I use Stabil brand marine grade fuel treatment, and I make sure the gas is not sitting in there more than a year. That damn ethanol is the reason my next rig will be a diesel.
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Re: Break out the popcorn; it's Part II of the M39 Sale.

Post by redeuce »

Junk Yard Dog wrote:The Dicor stuff works, I use it on both RV's, very easy to apply, the overhangs on every C leak sooner or later, it's a design fault. The one on my Tioga had to be disassembled and entirely rebuilt, it's the windows in the front overhang and the roof seal right above them, vibration causes leaks in that area. I have seen some serious disasters in that area, the van roof supports the rot so by the time anyone notices it's starting to sag in front the damage is done. The mattresses up there can hide water for years. Just remember that you have a long ass on that rig, it will drag if you turn up a hill that's steep, the class A had height back there that the C's lack, the longer the overhang the more problems with drag, and at 27' you are at the limit. Even with my 23' C I have to be careful, you probably have drag bars back there, sometimes they even have small wheels added, that should protect the back bumper from dragging. Good that you went over the brakes, stopping in something this size is important, as important is the propane gas system, check every connection and line, every appliance using the gas. That rig has an automatic shutdown sensor inside that if it detects gas it will close a valve on the main tank, test it and make sure it's working. Just take a bic lighter hold it by the sensor and let go some gas, it should shut the system down. Water and toilet problems, Ice box not working, leaks, all irritating problems RV owners have to deal with, but the gas can kill you, so can carbon monoxide, make sure your main cabin and bedroom alarms are working for both smoke and Carbon monoxide. I know RV smoke detectors, ditch them and get some good quality new replacement's. My Class A has the ducted furnace, a real convenience, but if something goes wrong it can duct deadly gas into every corner of the RV in minutes. It's a good rig, and I never suggest to anyone that they buy a new one, let somebody else deal with all the crap that goes wrong on a new RV, by now all the recalls on yours are done, you wouldn't believe all that goes wrong on new rigs, all the vehicle issues, and new house issues all in one, they are highly complex builds that need shaking down for a year or two to iron out all the bugs. Onan specializes in power generators and that unit is a very old design tried and true. Same one I have in the Tioga, and a larger version is in my Fleetwood, I even had one in a welder once. Twin cylinder pancake engine, be sure you treat the gasoline with marine gasoline treatment for the ethanol fuel, this is very important due to the RV sitting thing. Ethanol will eat the carburetor on the genset, and do bad things to the entire fuel system as it sits. I use Stabil brand marine grade fuel treatment, and I make sure the gas is not sitting in there more than a year. That damn ethanol is the reason my next rig will be a diesel.
I'm with you on everything, and I can tell you, because I'm obsessive compulsive on this rig, you definitely know your way around RV's. As to the window, spot on, that's where the leak was. Anybody that doesn't think they flex, look up at it driving down the road at 70! Window was bad design, took RV builders 20 years to figure it out. I caught this leak in time. Removed the original floor of the overhang to make sure. Put a new one in. Took out window, put new seal in, then caulked with Dicor non sag. You can't make as pretty a seal with Dicor, but I don't care. Dicor is the stuff. Yes, I've got drag bars, no wheels, just bars. I've driven six wheelers and semis. I'm always watching dips, inclines, and most important, low hanging trees. Mines a wide body, and the mirrors are way out there. Gotta be careful on narrow roads. Already had the propane tank inspected by a tank manufacturer, changed all the lines, regulator, etc. Sand blasted and repainted tank with gray heat reflective paint. Already installed a new propane gas detector, carbon monoxide detector, and smoke detector. Generator only had 36 hours, so I knew what that meant. Put on a new carb and lines. Not only did I add theSta Bil, but I run the gen once a week to keep the gas circulating. You and I think along the same lines. People don't realize half of the RV's go to shit because people leave them parked and don't do maintenance. If you don't want to constantly tinker with them, you shouldn't have one. As to new rigs, a buddy paid 150k for his--it's in the shop more than the road. The factories built them cheap. I know this, so when I do a repair, I make it better than the factory.
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Re: Break out the popcorn; it's Part II of the M39 Sale.

Post by Junk Yard Dog »

The newer C's are pretty much all wide body designs now, I bought mine to use as mobile storage, I got a very good deal on it as the last owner installed a new engine and a lot of other repairs to an Arizona clean body. It's small enough to still handle like a big van, but it will vibrate and sway at highway speeds same as any overhang design. I don't store anything in the overhang and I keep the shelf slid open so any water will fall right on my head should there be a problem. 36 hours is no use at all for the gen, I have 700+ on the Tioga's, and 200+ on the Fleetwoods. I had a hell of a time finding a 23' rig that wasn't a wreck, " slight water damage" in a Craigslist RV ad means it looks like an underwater recovery inside, black mold and all. Some people tried to give me RV's that may have had good mechanical parts but I am not paying the cost of a trash rolloff that would be needed to get rid of the body. One 1976 Dodge Midas had moss growing inside, not a good sign. The genset was a plus on the Tioga as many earlier C's didn't have them at all, it also lacks the automatic transfer switch, something I don't mind after changing it twice now on the big Fleetwood, I am considering doing away with it on the big bus, I can get out and swap a cord when I want to use it. Here are a few pics, a few changes have since been made, like the business with the ignition wires on the c.
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Leave it as it is. The ages have been at work on it and man can only mar it.
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Re: Break out the popcorn; it's Part II of the M39 Sale.

Post by SA1911a1 »

Here is a couple of photos of my travel set-up. It doesn't look like much on the outside,(it discourages riff-raff) but I have the inside fixed up quite comfortably. It is amazing what an good interior decorator can do.

http://www.highriskautopros.ca/wp-conte ... 1_1280.jpg
http://www.homedesign.cf/wp-content/upl ... photos.jpg
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Re: Break out the popcorn; it's Part II of the M39 Sale.

Post by bunkysdad »

That is a good one. A 500k dollar interior!
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Re: Break out the popcorn; it's Part II of the M39 Sale.

Post by redeuce »

Junk Yard Dog wrote:The newer C's are pretty much all wide body designs now, I bought mine to use as mobile storage, I got a very good deal on it as the last owner installed a new engine and a lot of other repairs to an Arizona clean body. It's small enough to still handle like a big van, but it will vibrate and sway at highway speeds same as any overhang design. I don't store anything in the overhang and I keep the shelf slid open so any water will fall right on my head should there be a problem. 36 hours is no use at all for the gen, I have 700+ on the Tioga's, and 200+ on the Fleetwoods. I had a hell of a time finding a 23' rig that wasn't a wreck, " slight water damage" in a Craigslist RV ad means it looks like an underwater recovery inside, black mold and all. Some people tried to give me RV's that may have had good mechanical parts but I am not paying the cost of a trash rolloff that would be needed to get rid of the body. One 1976 Dodge Midas had moss growing inside, not a good sign. The genset was a plus on the Tioga as many earlier C's didn't have them at all, it also lacks the automatic transfer switch, something I don't mind after changing it twice now on the big Fleetwood, I am considering doing away with it on the big bus, I can get out and swap a cord when I want to use it. Here are a few pics, a few changes have since been made, like the business with the ignition wires on the c.
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And the Holley 650 mounted on an aluminum intake. Lol. Clean rig. It looks like you use Dicor on your seams too.

Where's Dolk's TT?
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Re: Break out the popcorn; it's Part II of the M39 Sale.

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The pictures were taken the day I got it, the last owner used it on the seams and I have kept up the practice. He seemed to think he was building a hotrod, but had no idea how to tune a Holley, I had to do some adjusting, and now that rig will haul, but rarely passes a gas station.
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Re: Break out the popcorn; it's Part II of the M39 Sale.

Post by jungleking »

Any room in this thread for round 3?

https://youtu.be/Qd4fRbWWosE


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Re: Break out the popcorn; it's Part II of the M39 Sale.

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There is already a thread covering round 3.
Leave it as it is. The ages have been at work on it and man can only mar it.
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Re: Break out the popcorn; it's Part II of the M39 Sale.

Post by jungleking »

Yep, noticed right after I posted. Sorry. Phone didn't update the threads fast enough I guess....

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Re: Break out the popcorn; it's Part II of the M39 Sale.

Post by Darryl »

Yes, abandon this thread and more over to the more current thread!


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Re: Break out the popcorn; it's Part II of the M39 Sale.

Post by redeuce »

This is now the RV thread. We are waiting on pics of Dolk's travel trailer!
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Re: Break out the popcorn; it's Part II of the M39 Sale.

Post by Darryl »

I don't usually discuss my RV on the forums. I'm a little "sensitive" about it!

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I just got a new roller and roller pan, and 3 gallons of red paint. It should look a little "spiffer" soon! (up to date tetanus shots are required!)


I keep all my firearms in it.....no one would be expecting that.


Here is the engine. The rig is what I call a "real sleeper"!!! :chuckles: ......... :roll:

for you old drag fans, it's called "Hemi under trash"!

Dolk

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