reloading bullets for M44

[boltaction]

Hello, So, you are planing on reloading steel cases and in doing so, will be converting them to boxer primed cases. Now, that sounds very interesting to me. You let us know how that turns out...
Man, the things you can find on the internet... never stop amazing me...

[tjtM38]

Hello, So, you are planing on reloading steel cases and in doing so, will be converting them to boxer primed cases. Now, that sounds very interesting to me. You let us know how that turns out...
Man, the things you can find on the internet... never stop amazing me...

Why would you even want to try reloading steel case, when PPU brass case is readily available, inexpensive and already made for boxer primers?

[thumbs]

Hello, So, you are planing on reloading steel cases and in doing so, will be converting them to boxer primed cases. Now, that sounds very interesting to me. You let us know how that turns out...
Man, the things you can find on the internet... never stop amazing me...

Hello, So, you are planing on reloading steel cases and in doing so, will be converting them to boxer primed cases. Now, that sounds very interesting to me. You let us know how that turns out...
Man, the things you can find on the internet... never stop amazing me...

Why would you even want to try reloading steel case, when PPU brass case is readily available, inexpensive and already made for boxer primers?

Ha, because I can. LOL Two reasons, neither one makes a lot of sense. First steel case ammo is much less expensive and it may be fun to try. By the way this is not my idea. There are several youtube vids on it. I really know very little about it and I may decide not to pursue it. Who knows. From what I understand once the primer pocket is modified you just load as boxer. I have to get it to shoot to poi or much closer first.

Anyway got out to try out the M44 for the first time. Used Herters and PPU. Created more questions then it answered. I am way left and high as you can see if the pict posts. What is the proper way to adjust the front sight? Can it be drifted with a brass rod and hammer or is there a tool. I think I can adjust the elevation with loading but the windage needs to be adjusted. Is this groups elevation "normal" at 50yards? Hope the pic comes out. This is with the bayonet folded. This is with PPU 180gr SP.

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Just got a chance to check out the brass more closely. When looking at how the new cartridge primers were set below the surface to the brass I noticed the fired primers were flush with the bottom of the brass. In other words it looks like the primers were pushed back against the bolt. Now they weren't flatten out just push back. I figure this is normal but thought I would ask for sure. This happened with both the Herters and the PPU.

[tjtM38]

Have you checked the headspace on this weapon? It might be a good idea. From what you described, it does not sound like a major problem. As for your group high and left, you are going to have to drift the front sight in the dovetail to the left. Our sponsor, Elby Sight Tools, should be able to supply you with a front sight adjustment tool for the M44. There is not a lot you can do about the impact being high. That will require a higher front sight post. By the way, nice grouping out of that carbine.

[thumbs]

Thanks. I didn't do a lot of shooting but the PPU's shot the best. Have you found a difference in poi with the bayonet extended and closed?
I'll figure a way to raise the front post . Probably JB weld a piece of wire to the front sight. Hope it will stay there.
I think she will shoot when I find what she likes. It's way high at 100 yards. I mean over a foot. I'll check out ELby thanks for the tip.

[tjtM38]

Thanks. I didn't do a lot of shooting but the PPU's shot the best. Have you found a difference in poi with the bayonet extended and closed?

Yes; you should try shooting with the bayonet extended. That changes the barrel harmonics. Might shoot lower with lighter bullets.

[thumbs]

Thanks. I didn't do a lot of shooting but the PPU's shot the best. Have you found a difference in poi with the bayonet extended and closed?

Yes; you should try shooting with the bayonet extended. That changes the barrel harmonics. Might shoot lower with lighter bullets.

Thanks for the info. I did extend the bayonet and it seemed to shoot two inches or so to the right. Better than the 4 inches to the left but not enough. As you can see It shoots high for sure. I'll try lighter bullets also reducing the power charge may bring it down... Have you tried the Elby tool?

[tjtM38]

Yes; I have Elby tools for M91/30 and for the small sight base M44 (mine is a 1944). They work great.

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Ok I was just concerned about being made out of Aluminum. I was afraid it may strip out. Mine is a 1947. We were both born in the same year. LOL
I guess I'll soak the sight in PB blaster and try to break it loose. Then the tool will have a little easier job.
Hey never head spaced a rifle. Is it pretty easy to do? The bolt locks up tight. Seems like its only the primer that moves back. All the numbers on the rifle are the same so there aren't any mismatched parts.

[bunkysdad]

I've found that the PPU seems to have slightly deeper primer pockets. I don't seem to have a issue with it though. I would not JB Weld to the front sight post. You can find something to slip over it, such as a proper size piece of heat shrink tube that fits snug over the pin, then cut it off to the height you want. Too much though and it won't be centered in the sight globe, which may or may not play tricks on your eyes. Personally I have just learned to hold a little lower, especially since I often shoot at 50 yards. As a matter of fact my hand loads don't shoot as high as my factory surplus ammo. I have a picture of my M44 target with bayonet extended vs folded if I can find it. Don't you love the M44?

Sent from my SM-T337T using Tapatalk

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Thanks. Well I kinda went half way. I heard about the slip over thing but couldn't think of anything to slip over it. I really didn't want to JB weld it at least not till I was sure of the height. Funny I have a few rifles I have had to raise the front sight a bit. I have a piece of brass rod I use along with the JB. What I did, after I got the sight to drift for windage, was to place just a tiny bit of super glue to the brass and laid it up against the back of the front sight. I am hoping it will stay long enough to figure how much I will have to take off. I figure I can get the super glue off reasonably easily. Now that you mentioned the heat shrink maybe I can use it to attach the brass. Slide it over the original sight with the brass and heat it down. Should work find and it's easily changed out.
Like you say I plan to just hand load for the m44 so the poi will change after I use up the store bought ammo I really bought for the brass. I do want to be able to adjust the front sight as needed.
Both the Herters and the PPU have the deep pockets. I am to understand the primers are set deep on purpose. The only thing I noticed is the primers push back to flush with the back of the brass. In other words push back until the contact the bolt. They aren't flattened nor cratered just pushed back. No signs of over pressure. I figure with them being set deep it would be kinda normal for the pressure to push the primer back. I read somewhere that the primers are set deep because of the length of the fireing pin.
From what I understand just about all the Mosins shoot high. Over the 60 year plus manufacturing of the rifle you would think someone would either put an adjustable front sight on it from the factory or raise the thing a touch to make it shoot to poi. Heck mine shoots at least 6" high at 100 yards maybe higher.
Yeah I really like the thing but will keep the love part till I get her dialed in. Its a matter of the right ammo and sights. I was pokin around in my powder supply and found two pounds of Red Dot and may try "The Load" in the near future.

[megabait56]

Missouri high tech Mosin 167gr. Bullets, bought a large box of them. Reloading 45 year's and I couldn't get these too group on 2'x2' paper at 25yards. Played with seating, powders, crimping and loads. Used 2 M39's, exdragoon, M44's with .310" to .312" bores. Melted them all down to recast into bullets that can group.