The Russian Mosin Nagant Forum

desdem12 wrote:I also will throw into this now. There was a test of all cleaners. Even windex and noithing including hoppes, and water won the test. Plain water. (highly noticeable less corrosion over period of test) Yes maybe hoppes works but water is cheaper by far. Conducted by surplus rifle a while back.

Water will work but what about the copper and lead deposits? Their is salt underneath the deposits so how is water going to get to that?

I have a half dozen bottles of Hoppes #9. I love the stuff. And the smell too.:P

bunkysdad wrote:I have a half dozen bottles of Hoppes #9. I love the stuff. And the smell too.:P

You probably know this already but they have air fresheners for your car that smell like Hoppe's. I plan on getting some. Sure beats mystic breeze!

srv1 wrote:

desdem12 wrote:I also will throw into this now. There was a test of all cleaners. Even windex and noithing including hoppes, and water won the test. Plain water. (highly noticeable less corrosion over period of test) Yes maybe hoppes works but water is cheaper by far. Conducted by surplus rifle a while back.

Water will work but what about the copper and lead deposits? Their is salt underneath the deposits so how is water going to get to that?

If you read what is being said and not ignore experienced members posts you will find that using water to dissolve salts THEN clean as usual. That is how you remove the copper and lead deposits.

The boiling water has several purposes to me. It takes the salts out heats up the barrel and makes the copper fouling easier to brush out and gets rid of at least half if not more of the powder fouling. Cuts cleaning time to just a short breeze. I am notoriously cheap but the water really works. Black powder fouling same thing. I am sure that you can clean them with hoppes although the test was thorough and detailed and I have seen it myself. I have no doh so every last penny I can squeeze for rifles is bonus and the extra bonus is it is time tested and time proved and also proved in my own garage and safe.
Boiling water (with doohickey so as not to disassemble unless neccessary)
one or 2 brushes while hot (1 mostly)
patch as needed and that is not a lot.
Oil.
Oily rag to wipe outside where touched on metal.
DONE

Thanks...I learned something here today........

I use ballistol and a snake right after shooting (barrel still hot). Don't know if that is the best method, but it has worked well for me.

Judi and her Mosins wrote:Thanks...I learned something here today........

We hope so Judi. It is really what we try to do here.

I use Oatmeal and a touch of brown sugar and sometimes a touch of milk to thin it up a bit........no, .....wait......that is what I had for breakfast ..........never mind.


dolk

That should have read....couple of hoppes patches and then patch as necessary, which is one or 2 more, then one with oil.

Longcolt44 wrote:

srv1 wrote:

desdem12 wrote:I also will throw into this now. There was a test of all cleaners. Even windex and noithing including hoppes, and water won the test. Plain water. (highly noticeable less corrosion over period of test) Yes maybe hoppes works but water is cheaper by far. Conducted by surplus rifle a while back.

Water will work but what about the copper and lead deposits? Their is salt underneath the deposits so how is water going to get to that?

If you read what is being said and not ignore experienced members posts you will find that using water to dissolve salts THEN clean as usual. That is how you remove the copper and lead deposits.

You stated that Hoppe's does not dissolve the salts when in fact that it does. Why go through the extra steps while you can do it with just Hoppe's and be done with it? I do not see how putting hot water down a bare steel barrel is good for the metal especially if rust has already been in there but some have said it works then so be it. Hoppe's is not that expensive either. I will continue to use Hoppe's because it works just as good as hot water and even better at removing copper and lead. Checked the FN49 today, still no rust.

James

I take this as just about the definitive study on cleaners. See how they stack up.
http://www.surplusrifle.com/reviews2006 ... /index.asp

millman wrote:I take this as just about the definitive study on cleaners. See how they stack up.
http://www.surplusrifle.com/reviews2006 ... /index.asp

That is a pretty good link there millman. Thanks for posting it. While I personally believe using enough (meaning a ton) of most any gun cleaner will wash away (not necessarily dissolve) corrosive salts; this comparison gives some insight to which ones do it most effectively. Normally I don't even comment on these threads once it turns into "what cleaner works best," because it is like going to a bar and asking what is the best beer? Everyone has their own oppinion; but I have to give you props for posting a link that compares these different cleaners head to head.

clayshooter2 wrote:

millman wrote:I take this as just about the definitive study on cleaners. See how they stack up.
http://www.surplusrifle.com/reviews2006 ... /index.asp

That is a pretty good link there millman. Thanks for posting it. While I personally believe using enough (meaning a ton) of most any gun cleaner will wash away (not necessarily dissolve) corrosive salts; this comparison gives some insight to which ones do it most effectively. Normally I don't even comment on these threads once it turns into "what cleaner works best," because it is like going to a bar and asking what is the best beer? Everyone has their own oppinion; but I have to give you props for posting a link that compares these different cleaners head to head.

Thanks Clayshooter. I too usually avoid these cleaning threads, but this one seemed to be taking a bad turn, and some at least "semi" scientific evidence needed to be injected into it. That article is why I stick to windex as my primary means of removing salts. Of course I follow that with a thorough Hoppes 9 cleaning.

Exactly the test I was referring to.

This is probably a silly question, but how do you go about pouring the boiling water down the barrel without getting it over the wood and the rest of the gun? What kind of container do you use to do this?

I have a tea kettle that I use. I can do it without getting too much on the wood but you can disassemble it if needed. I have a little doohickey I made from a oil filler thing. It pushes together and pulls apart and is red. Found it at walmart. I cut a slit in the end so it fits into the chamber and then it bends up out of the chamber so I can pour water down with out spilling ...mostly. If you get a little water on the inside of the stock it will dry itself from the heat.

millman wrote:I take this as just about the definitive study on cleaners. See how they stack up.
http://www.surplusrifle.com/reviews2006 ... /index.asp

So... rinse with hot water, then clean with your favorite product as normal and oil the metal surfaces to inhibit rust formation? Sounds like what all of the milsurp veterans around here have been saying!

Yes. If you do anything, at least wash the salts out.

Rups63 wrote:

millman wrote:I take this as just about the definitive study on cleaners. See how they stack up.
http://www.surplusrifle.com/reviews2006 ... /index.asp

So... rinse with hot water, then clean with your favorite product as normal and oil the metal surfaces to inhibit rust formation? Sounds like what all of the milsurp veterans around here have been saying!

Exactly. Simple, isn't it.

No if you want to get "fancy", then they actually make a wash kit for getting the water in it. It is a garden hose attachment (and will fit many sinks, or you can get an adapter) to a small hose and on the other end it looks like a "bullet" the same size as the 7.62x54r. Screw that onto the sink and put the bullet looking part into the chamber and turn on the hot water.....clean!

Then use your regular cleaning items.

But, it just another "toy" and you don't really need it. Use a small funnel and pour slowly. I always remove the wood when cleaning, so nothing like boar cleaner gets onto the wood either.

Dolk