Choke tube removal help

[SA1911a1]

About a year ago I picked up a decent Winchester Model 59 (Win Lite) shotgun. This is the very light shotgun with the aluminum receiver and the fiberglass barrel. It was one of the models with the "Versatile Choke" and the choke on the tube is full. I found a heck of a deal on a used modified choke and I want to swap them make this a squirrel gun.

Of course, the old choke had probably never been removed and it is quite stuck. I have had it soaking in synthetic motor oil for about a week and it still does not want to break. I am leery of using a more harsh chemical to soak it in because of the fiberglass. I have tried heating, cooling, even the ultra sonic treatment. I am not sure how much torque it will handle either. I am hoping that someone has a magic solution for me.

[steelbuttplate]

About a year ago I picked up a decent Winchester Model 59 (Win Lite) shotgun. This is the very light shotgun with the aluminum receiver and the fiberglass barrel. It was one of the models with the "Versatile Choke" and the choke on the tube is full. I found a heck of a deal on a used modified choke and I want to swap them make this a squirrel gun.

Of course, the old choke had probably never been removed and it is quite stuck. I have had it soaking in synthetic motor oil for about a week and it still does not want to break. I am leery of using a more harsh chemical to soak it in because of the fiberglass. I have tried heating, cooling, even the ultra sonic treatment. I am not sure how much torque it will handle either. I am hoping that someone has a magic solution for me.

If it be magic, ya need to try a silver dime. Gently, speaking seminole prayers.
OK seriously. Have you tried boiling the end of the barrel, then stick an ice cube in the choke for 15 seconds and twist like hell. ? Are those right hand threads ?

[WeldonHunter]

Most oils, even synthetic are great for lubrication but not the best solvents or penetrating oil. Their purpose is stopping contact between two surfaces. You might try soaking the end of the barrel in some Hoppe's #9 to remove any remaining oil and then a good penetrating oil. I use Aero Kroil by Kano Labs on most stuck, rusted, carboned up things and it works great and is friendly to parts not made made of metal. Oil is thick and may not penetrate in to the tight spaces that are causing it to bind up. The claim of Aero Kroil is it creeps in to spaces 1 millionth of an inch. The label also says it's great for cleaning guns, rifle barrels, parts and tools. It's not readily available at a lot of stores so you might need to order it online. Get the Aero Kroil and not the Sili Kroil with Silicone. The one with Silicone is good stuff but if you ever plan on doing work on any surface it's been applied to like bluing or painting the silicone can inhibit the chemicals or paint from sticking or doing what you want it too. https://www.kroil.com/where-to-buy/

[SA1911a1]

Most oils, even synthetic are great for lubrication but not the best solvents or penetrating oil. Their purpose is stopping contact between two surfaces. You might try soaking the end of the barrel in some Hoppe's #9 to remove any remaining oil and then a good penetrating oil. I use Aero Kroil by Kano Labs on most stuck, rusted, carboned up things and it works great and is friendly to parts not made made of metal. Oil is thick and may not penetrate in to the tight spaces that are causing it to bind up. The claim of Aero Kroil is it creeps in to spaces 1 millionth of an inch. The label also says it's great for cleaning guns, rifle barrels, parts and tools. It's not readily available at a lot of stores so you might need to order it online. Get the Aero Kroil and not the Sili Kroil with Silicone. The one with Silicone is good stuff but if you ever plan on doing work on any surface it's been applied to like bluing or painting the silicone can inhibit the chemicals or paint from sticking or doing what you want it too. https://www.kroil.com/where-to-buy/

The big question is how a really good penetrating oil will react with a fiberglass barrel?

[millman]

Most oils, even synthetic are great for lubrication but not the best solvents or penetrating oil. Their purpose is stopping contact between two surfaces. You might try soaking the end of the barrel in some Hoppe's #9 to remove any remaining oil and then a good penetrating oil. I use Aero Kroil by Kano Labs on most stuck, rusted, carboned up things and it works great and is friendly to parts not made made of metal. Oil is thick and may not penetrate in to the tight spaces that are causing it to bind up. The claim of Aero Kroil is it creeps in to spaces 1 millionth of an inch. The label also says it's great for cleaning guns, rifle barrels, parts and tools. It's not readily available at a lot of stores so you might need to order it online. Get the Aero Kroil and not the Sili Kroil with Silicone. The one with Silicone is good stuff but if you ever plan on doing work on any surface it's been applied to like bluing or painting the silicone can inhibit the chemicals or paint from sticking or doing what you want it too. https://www.kroil.com/where-to-buy/

The big question is how a really good penetrating oil will react with a fiberglass barrel?

I dont think it would hurt it.

[Junk Yard Dog]

Kroil, PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, 50/50 mix of acetone and auto transmission fluid, all of them. Impact seems to harm fiberglass, so will high heat, but so far I have not seen oils do any harm. Apply heat with a heat gun? If the barrel can survive the heat of a couple box's of shotshells then limited heat from a heat gun to help the oil along shouldn't be a problem.

[WeldonHunter]

Most oils, even synthetic are great for lubrication but not the best solvents or penetrating oil. Their purpose is stopping contact between two surfaces. You might try soaking the end of the barrel in some Hoppe's #9 to remove any remaining oil and then a good penetrating oil. I use Aero Kroil by Kano Labs on most stuck, rusted, carboned up things and it works great and is friendly to parts not made made of metal. Oil is thick and may not penetrate in to the tight spaces that are causing it to bind up. The claim of Aero Kroil is it creeps in to spaces 1 millionth of an inch. The label also says it's great for cleaning guns, rifle barrels, parts and tools. It's not readily available at a lot of stores so you might need to order it online. Get the Aero Kroil and not the Sili Kroil with Silicone. The one with Silicone is good stuff but if you ever plan on doing work on any surface it's been applied to like bluing or painting the silicone can inhibit the chemicals or paint from sticking or doing what you want it too. https://www.kroil.com/where-to-buy/

The big question is how a really good penetrating oil will react with a fiberglass barrel?

I don't think Kroil or most other penetrating oils will harm fiberglass. If memory serves me right this has a steel barrel that's shrouded with fiberglass and I think the choke actually screws in to the steel of the barrel.