Newly Made Firing Pin Spring

[musketjon]

Mods, if I have breached any rules with this posting, please accept my apologies and delete.
I do not work for, nor have any ties to this company, but I wanted to tell you about a newly made f/p spring that I just installed. It's made by Howling Raven in Texas. The bolt manipulation is definitely easier and the trigger pull is noticeably lighter. Ignition is perfect every shot. It took care of the infamous ''sticky bolt'' syndrome as well. As stated, I have no personal or monetary gain here, just wanted to share a possible up grade with all of you.
Jon

[SSGTSemperFi]

While i've kept the original tucked away in my field cleaning kit, I don't think it's detrimental to the history of the rifle to replace the spring. Springs generally don't age very well, it's just in their nature A rifle that has a light strike can not only be a little dangerous (hangfire ND's happen to some new or oblivious shooters), but it's also not fun to shoot, unless you like playing "when will it go off?" . I've got one of these on myself (also have a muzzle brake I use when I let others' use my rifle), their stuff is made well.

[zeebill]

Lightened firing pin springs also make the possibility of an accidental discharge much more possible. Neither of you have mentioned doing a bounce test after installing these firing pins to check for the increased possible accidental discharge. Firing pin springs are usually fine after many years of being compressed and even stored in a cocked condition. In 25 or 30 years I have replaced one and it was when somebody had obviously cut down the spring making it dangerously light and prone to an accidental discharge.

I highly suggest you not offer or suggest to others that they modify the firing pin spring or change it for a markedly lighter one as you are leading them down a very dangerous path that leads to nothing but trouble and increased danger! It is not safe to do and knowing or admitting or leading someone to do that is very dangerous for them to do and not responsible for you to suggest! Bill

[musketjon]

Zeebill,
Excuse me all to heck and thank you for your legal advice. The rifle passes the bounce test just fine. If it doesn't, it's the sear angles, not spring tension. Did I mention that I'm a tool and die machinist? Did I mention that the cocking piece sear tab has been ground to exactly 90* to the bolt body using a surface grinder and checked with an optical comparator? The sear has been ground and checked as well. Did I mention that the trigger has a no-creep 4# pull and breaks like a glass rod? Did I mention that the rifle passes the bounce test? Do you think that Howling Raven is going to sell an inferior spring and open themselves up to a potential law suit? Maybe you should check into one's credentials before jumping down their throat.
Jon

[Junk Yard Dog]

Topic locked until I am done working and have time to deal with it. I am having a busy day, I just have no time until tonight so everyone just go to your corners and wait. Either that of fly to NY with your work gloves on and I will put you to work so I get done faster.

[Junk Yard Dog]

OK, did I mention how I hate hearing about any sort of permanent modifications being done to milsurp? I hear the word "grinder" and I get the chills, I don't care why it was used or how successful the operation was. That isn't a topic for a preservation board. I could care less how antiques shoot, or if they shoot at all, history is what I am about, history is the main focus of this board. I am willing to tolerate a certain amount of accuracy talk, and mention of making ones own shims or putting shrink wrap around front sight posts, all non invasive or permeant alterations. I don't much care for aftermarket crap no matter what it is on antiques, plastic stocks, triggers, firing pin springs, compensators, whatever, none of that has anything to do with the history of these weapons and so means nothing to me. I put up with it because I know it is of some interest to some of the membership, to each his or her own, but I draw the line at cutting, grinding, or anything that is permanently altering these antiques no matter what it does for their reliability or accuracy. Reliability and accuracy are words that belong with modern commercial sporters. Production numbers, examinations of cool markings, or stock repairs, dates and battles, these are things I love to hear about . I am not a lawyer, neither is Bill, but we do live in a world were it worked until you broke it, no matter if whatever happened was the fault of the work done, or not. That's the speech I usually give when someone mentions alterations to anything in the trigger group or bolt on any firearm, this time Bill just beat me too it. This has nothing to do with anyone's level of skill, or experience. This has to do with someone reading such comments and deciding to try their own hand at it despite having little or no skill. Credentials do not enter into it, I don't question credentials as I don't know any of you personally so I can't check on any of it, this is about covering the boards ass even if you don't want to cover your own. We do not condone any sort of alterations to the action of any firearm by anyone other than a licensed and accredited gunsmith. In the future lets all keep mention of such home projects at home, not on the board, Thank you.