Corrosive ammo,how to spot it ?

[RedDiamond1944]

I like my Mosin m9130 and wish to shoot, take care of, and preserve it for a long time. I am not really interested in all the extra precautions and cleaning with corrosive surplus ammo. How do I spot it ?

[Rongo]

First of all....

Regarding corrosive ammo.... Hmm. If you want to be sure I would stick with new manufacture like Prvi Partisan, Wolf, Remington & Winchester ammo that comes in a 20rnd box.

Cleaning after shooting corrosive ammo is not a huge deal, but it must be done immediately after shooting it.

[JIMPARKS]

Corrosive residue is easily taken care of, especially in the 91/30. First brush/rag thru the bore saturated with windex/ammonia. Spray the bolt face and receiver with windex/amonia and blow it out with air. Then just clean like you would normally do. Ammonia on nitrates is like baking soda on acid.

[bunkysdad]

I would say that in a semi auto rifle, especially a piston driven auto, that using corrosive ammo would be more trouble, but bolt action rifles are easy to clean so I would not avoid corrosive ammo, especially if you don't have a bank full of money to buy ammo. But if you do decide to avoid it then just know that all surplus ammo is corrosive. Remember it is the primers that are corrosive so it is just better to assume that it is all corrosive. Or handload your own.

[tjtM38]

All surplus 7.62x54r is corrosive. Commercial such as the brands mentioned earlier, is advertised as non-corrosive. Personally, I clean the same way whether using new or surplus ammo. This ensures that my rifle(s) will not become a rust bucket. When I use ammo that I hand load, knowing the primers and propellants I purchase are non-corrosive, I might modify my cleaning routine and clean as if shooting any modern center fire hunting rifle.

[john_the_plinker]

Corrosive residue is easily taken care of, especially in the 91/30. First brush/rag thru the bore saturated with windex/ammonia. Spray the bolt face and receiver with windex/amonia and blow it out with air. Then just clean like you would normally do. Ammonia on nitrates is like baking soda on acid.

Yes, it is easy, but it is NOT because of the ammonia. Potassium chloride is the left over salt from corrosive primers. This salt is about 900 times more soluble in water than ammonia. Properties of KCL, with handy chart of solubility. Also, the ammonia you buy at the store is than 10% ammonia, the rest is, you guessed it, water. One last thing, Windex/window cleaner is less than 5% ammonia solution, i.e. about 1/2 of 1% ammonia.

[Sonny]

I just use G96 nitro solvent,seems to work pretty good.

[Junk Yard Dog]

If the box has Winchester, Remington, or Federal written on it then it's not corrosive, everything else is suspect. Reload it yourself and you can be sure it's non corrosive without paying the buck plus a round of the commercial manufactured hunting ammunition.

[Rongo]

Corrosive residue is easily taken care of, especially in the 91/30. First brush/rag thru the bore saturated with windex/ammonia. Spray the bolt face and receiver with windex/amonia and blow it out with air. Then just clean like you would normally do. Ammonia on nitrates is like baking soda on acid.

Yes, it is easy, but it is NOT because of the ammonia. Potassium chloride is the left over salt from corrosive primers. This salt is about 900 times more soluble in water than ammonia. Properties of KCL, with handy chart of solubility. Also, the ammonia you buy at the store is than 10% ammonia, the rest is, you guessed it, water. One last thing, Windex/window cleaner is less than 5% ammonia solution, i.e. about 1/2 of 1% ammonia.

Ammonia is not a concern of mine when cleaning post shooting corrosive ammo. The key is to get a good rinse to remove aggressive deposits that can do harm. Steamy hot water down the bore does wonders; Then clean as you normally do.
What I like is we have a choice in the kinds of ammo we use. If you don't want to mess with corrosive ammo you don't have to.

[Rongo]

I just use G96 nitro solvent,seems to work pretty good.

That's pretty potent stuff.

[FineRedMist]

What's the preferred method for getting the hot water down the bore? I can't imagine boiling water is very good for the furniture, so do you get one of those long, skinny funnels to guide it in?


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[bunkysdad]

Yes a funnel is good our a tea pot that has a spout, or you can disassemble from the stock. I use a funnel with a hose and point the barrel downward and pour slowly down the breech end.

[Rongo]

Teapot, take it out of the stock & good to go. I'll do the funnel/hose setup soon. Pretty easy & man does that hot water work crud loose.

[FineRedMist]

I'm lazy, I guess. I just didn't want to have to take the thing completely apart for every post-range day cleaning.


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[RedDiamond1944]

I myself enjoy reloading, more than cleaning. I think I'll go that rout. This whole boiling water down the bore , and ammonia malarkey is for the birds. I don't mind a cleaning patch and some #9 down the bore after a day at the range. Now it's off to slug the bore on the ol' girl and find out what the heck size projectiles to buy.

[RedDiamond1944]

Thank everybody for all the input ! I have collected a small pile of used PPU brass I have fired I will start reloading with that.

[Junk Yard Dog]

Red Diamond, that was one of Internationals better engines, I have one in my 1969 FWD, powerhouse, and nearly idiot proof.

[Darryl]

I clean all my rifles the same way. After I shoot and get home. Doesn't matter if it is corrosive or not.

Clean like it is corrosive and right after and who cares if it is or isn't.

Dolk

[RedDiamond1944]

@junk yard dog
My grandfather was a member of the US Army 5th Infantry Red Diamond devision of the ETO. Landed in Normandy July 9 1944 and stayed through out the war and LUCKILY one of the very few who made it home. He was (from what my dad tells me) with Patton at the Battle of the Bulge.

[Longcolt44]

You can make a copy of a funnel like this with some copper tubing and a drilled out cartridge.