How Are Mosins Graded ?

[tinknocker104]

I've been searching extensively for information that would help me determine the condition of a rifle relative to it's price. I've seen the term " Shooters Grade' but I don't know what that means. Other than that, I see terms like Good, Very Good, Excellent. Are the days of the $99.00 rifle gone? In my area the median is $200.00 A push in the right direction is appreciated.

[kamakazi339]

from what ive seen typical mosins are running around 130-150 at least in my area

[husker51]

Grades are somewhat loose depending on where you are looking. Some shooters grade rifles purchase by others on this forum, have been reported as being in somewhat exceptional condition and the buyers were very pleased with what they received. Good usually means basically sound, not entirely without some minor flaws, finish and blueing are not the best but the rifle is in relatively descent condtion and functions acceptably. Very Good of course is just a little better all the way around. More pleasing to the eye. A litt;e more blueing remains, stock is in better condition. The rifling is a little sharper perhaps shinier. Excellent is just about as good as it gets. Metal edges are sharp and finish is mostly complete with a minimum of dings or scratches. 95 to 100% blueing. Rifling is near new condition, shiny sharp lands and grooves. This is about the best I can describe condition from what I have been able to deduce from looking around different places.

[Darryl]

NRA CONDITION STANDARDS FOR ANTIQUE FIREARMS:

FACTORY NEW: All original parts; 100% original finish; in perfect condition in every respect, inside and out.

EXCELLENT: All original parts; over 80% original finish; sharp lettering, numerals and design on metal and wood; unmarred wood; fine bore.

FINE: All original parts; over 30% original finish; sharp lettering, numerals and design on metal and wood; minor marks in wood; good bore.

VERY GOOD: All original parts; none to 30% original finish; original metal surfaces smooth with all edges sharp; clear lettering, numerals and design on metal; wood slightly scratched or bruised; bore disregarded for collectors firearms.

GOOD: Some minor replacement parts; metal smoothly rusted or lightly pitted in places, cleaned or re-blued; principal letters, numerals and design on metal legible; wood refinished, scratched bruised or minor cracks repaired; in good working order.

FAIR: Some major parts replaced; minor replacement parts may be required; metal rusted, may be lightly pitted all over, vigorously cleaned or re-blued; rounded edges of metal and wood; principal lettering, numerals and design on metal partly obliterated; wood scratched, bruised, cracked or repaired where broken; in fair working order or can be easily repaired and placed in working order.

POOR: Major and minor parts replaced; major replacement parts required and extensive restoration needed; metal deeply pitted; principal lettering, numerals and design obliterated, wood badly scratched, bruised, cracked or broken; mechanically inoperative; generally undesirable as a collector's firearm.

NRA CONDITION STANDARDS FOR MODERN FIREARMS:

NEW: Not previously sold at retail, in same condition as current factory production.

PERFECT: In New condition in every respect.

EXCELLENT: New condition, used but little, no noticeable marring of wood or metal, bluing perfect, (except at muzzle or sharp edges).

VERY GOOD: In perfect working condition, no appreciable wear on working surfaces, no corrosion or pitting, only minor surface dents or scratches.

GOOD: In safe working condition, minor wear on working surfaces, no broken parts, no corrosion or pitting that will interfere with proper functioning.

FAIR: In safe working condition but well worn, perhaps requiring replacement of minor parts or adjustments which should be indicated in advertisement, no rust, but may have corrosion pits which do not render article unsafe or inoperable.i

[tinknocker104]

Wow, thank you all

[Junk Yard Dog]

Most sellers seem to make up their own grades as they go along, unless they are using NRA grading, but remember this part of NRA grading of antique firearms.

VERY GOOD: All original parts; none to 30% original finish; original metal surfaces smooth with all edges sharp; clear lettering, numerals and design on metal; wood slightly scratched or bruised; bore disregarded for collectors firearms

[zeebill]

Wow, thank you all

What may change your mind about all the help is the plain fact most everyone that sells their rifles has their own grading system and nothing is consistant. If you can't hold it in your hand and look at it you are taking a chance period! Sometimes after dealing with someone they will kind of set a pattern on their grading system and you may feel more confident in their judgement and zap they will send you one you will have to send back! It is just a fact of life I guess sooner or later you will get burned! Good Luck! Bill

[tinknocker104]

A Good Start. I feel more informed and at least, have a basis that will help me assess the condition of a rifle relative to it's asking price. That's what I was looking for. I understand that value is subjective . What I find interesting or curious about a rifle , others may or may not. Again, thank you.

[martin08]

When contemplating the terms other than the NRA grading system, such as "Shooter Grade" or "Collector Grade", please keep in mind from whom the statements are derived. There are many sellers with no scruples whatsoever who will pin a Collector Grade description on an otherwise common and non-remarkable specimen, in the hope that an unsuspecting buyer will see the incredible claim, and then put down two to five times the average retail value.

Not all sellers are unscrupulous, but some honest sellers still get caught up in the Shooter/Collector grade crap. But as a rule, I ignore all claims, and make my own assessment.

[Junk Yard Dog]

[tinknocker104]

LOL

[finloq]

I would have never figured you for a pinky ring kind of guy, Jim.