Suspect bolt - where to start
Suspect bolt - where to start
I have a 1930 91/30 that's always had "sticky bolt". I tried all the cleaning suggestions and after awhile I just got tired of this rifle and set it aside. Well, the other day I got it out and was looking at it some more and decided to swap another bolt into it to see if it made a difference. Sure enough, with other bolts in it, it dry fires and cycles fine but as soon as I put the original bolt in and dry fire it gets difficult to cycle. I'm thinking I need to start swapping out bolt pieces but was curious if anyone had experienced this before and what part was the culprit. Thanks in advance.
Re: Suspect bolt - where to start
Using the original bolt, check the headspace using a go and no-go gauge. Our sponsor, Okie Headspace Gauges will have what you need. If the headspace is bad, you can most often fix the problem by swapping bolt heads.
Re: Suspect bolt - where to start
I start out with the bolt in closed position, lift the handle up about 75 degrees and depress the trigger, if the handle snaps down quick and fully, I am good. If not, I start working on the action screws.
"Self-realization. I was thinking of the immortal words of Socrates, who said, "... I drank what?"
Re: Suspect bolt - where to start
Try LIGHTLY stoning and lubing the cocking slot on the bolt body and mating cocking surface on the cocking piece. It helped one of mine immensely.
Jon
Jon
Re: Suspect bolt - where to start
Have you tried grease on the cocking cams?
“Freedom is the right to tell people what they do not want to hear.” George Orwell, English novelist, essayist, and critic, 1903-1950
Of all tyrannies, a tyranny sincerely exercised for the good of its victims may be the most oppressive. It would be better to live under robber barons than under omnipotent moral busybodies. The robber baron's cruelty may sometimes sleep, his cupidity may at some point be satiated; but those who torment us for our own good will torment us without end for they do so with the approval of their own conscience.
C. S. Lewis
Of all tyrannies, a tyranny sincerely exercised for the good of its victims may be the most oppressive. It would be better to live under robber barons than under omnipotent moral busybodies. The robber baron's cruelty may sometimes sleep, his cupidity may at some point be satiated; but those who torment us for our own good will torment us without end for they do so with the approval of their own conscience.
C. S. Lewis
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WeldonHunter
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Re: Suspect bolt - where to start
That and shoot it. Remember these rifles, I'm assuming it's a refurb, are put together from parts of many different rifles including the bolts. Some need to be used to wear the parts to eachother. As long as you don't have any damaged parts it should eventually loosen up some and become smoother.millman wrote:Have you tried grease on the cocking cams?
Re: Suspect bolt - where to start
lots of oil
Re: Suspect bolt - where to start
Staying with the original bolt, clean the bore and chamber. Then clean it again 2 more times. Don't be afraid to use a little cleaning compound/#9 bore cleaner with a 12 gauge brass brush and a cordless drill. Use a flashlight to see into the chamber and bore. If you have done it right, you will see the results. Dismantle the bolt, clean and check for high spots. Make sure the bolt face is free of nicks, extractor is smooth. A little steel wool will help with the action. Make sure the area where the bolt rides is clean. I have been working on my 91/30 for a couple of months getting the crud out. After all the cleaning and polishing, the bolt action is so smooth it bothered me to the point that I ordered a set of gauges to make sure I had not cleaned myself into a problem. The "go" gauge fits like a glove and the bolt closes with no problems. The "no-go" and "field" gauges do not allow the bolt to close. Will be on the range this coming Friday!