The Russian Mosin Nagant Forum

I used "The Load" as developed by Ed Harris in my 91/30 and it was about like a 22LR in report and recoil. Reasonably accurate at 100 yards. "The Load" is 13 grains of Red Dot. I have no idea if this would be safe in your situation.

More than 15 years ago I put one of the original Huber triggers in my 91/30 [totally reversible, no permanent changes to the rifle] and it is crisp w/o creep, stacking, grit or drag. I see they now offer a few more selections: https://huberconcepts.com/product/mosin-nagant-trigger/

I get it Stonewall...this is why I roll my eyes when the "Wow look what rifles you could get for $45.00 in 1965!" threads.

I am not a proponent of gun control laws, but this is a fool who should not be near a gun. Ever. That was pure agony watching this double digit I.Q. door knob. Watch who you sit next to at the range!

Being the bearers of only righteous content they seek to shut us gunnies out yet type in 'bouncing titties' in the Youtube search bar and see what you get. What hypocrites the Youtube bunch are.

Back in those days I did pick up a Norinco from a private party because at the LGS the employee called them "Cheap Commie pieces of shit" and refused to carry them. The other LGSs did carry them and made a killing. He stuck to his principles, but it cost him.

That would work, but I use the Lee anniversary press and quick change bushings. So I would still have to re-adjust the FL die after neck sizing. So I think I'll get a Lee 303 Brit neck sizing die. I read on another site how to adjust the die to work very well with the 7.62x54r cases. Besides I like...

Tell me OP, how did you get the sling rings off of the rifle? I have a Finned NEW also and I would like to take it apart to check under the wood just to be sure there are no nasty surprises there. I didn't want to break the sling rings.

I use a Lee full length sizing die to neck size by putting a couple of washer under the die before screwing the die tight. This works great for me. YMMV.

You have the last two digits of the s/n cryptically xx out in your text write up, but the full s/n is shown in your pictures. That is one cherry rifle. Nice grab.

I have used it and it shoots rather well in my 91/30. I use Hornady bullets.

I shot a lot of that back in the day when it was readily available, and it was very inexpensive. It also is very hot ammo with a satisfying shoulder smack. Some folks have run it over a chronograph and it is fast. Some folks complained that 1947 year stuff was poor quality with cracked necks, loose ...

I have used the 13gr of RD in my 91/30 with standard 174gr, not cast bullets. The recoil was ~ like a .22 and the accuracy was satisfactory.

Being that OP is a noobie he needs to be told how to clean after having shot corrosive ammo. So, OP if you are still following your post here is how to clean for corrosive ammo: wet 2 patches with water and run them through the bore. Use another wet patch to wipe off the bolt face, dry the bolt face...

Is it all original or does it have a replaced barrel as many were refurbished in WWII. Mine has a 2 groove Johnson Automatic replacement barrel. I found with the 2 groove barrels flat based bullets shoot accurately while boat tails do not. Nice rifle you have there.

You might try a foaming bore cleaner. That might be able to work its way into the pores/pits and clean them out. It won't restore the bore, but it will get the difficult to get at junk. That worked for me with a rifle I have with a pitted bore.

I have had outstanding accuracy with 45gr IMR 4831

I guess I'm the odd man out here, but I have never had any issues in my 91/30, in fact it shot quite accurately.

Testing your reloads from a kneeling position won't give you a true picture of the load's potential. You need to shoot from a bench with your rifle on bags. That will not totally eliminate, but will substantially reduce the human factor.

Then of course there is this: http://iwastesomuchtime.com/on/?i=24381

We hope you are well sir.